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Here's an overview on pool care in general with step-by-step guidelines.

How you close your pool will have a major impact on the ease of spring opening. Following the proper steps and procedures will help you minimize the time and money you spend on opening your pool once spring comes along. Your pool will be better protected during the off-season and you’ll also help extend the life and appearance of pool surfaces and equipment.

How you close your pool differs depending on where you live. Chose the procedure that’s right for where you live:

Cold Climates - Northern climates, where freezing temperatures are frequent and pools are closed and covered.
Mild Climates - Southern climates where pools are used intermittently during the winter months and freezing temperatures are infrequent.

Closing/Winterizing In Cold Climates
To protect your pool over the winter months and to make spring start-up smoother, follow the winterization procedure as outlined below. With each step, remember to carefully read and follow all directions on the product packaging.

1. Test the water for pH, calcium hardness and total alkalinity levels. Adjust as needed for proper balance. This is crucial because out-of-balance pool water can be very corrosive or scale-producing at low temperatures.

• pH should be between 7.2 - 7.6

• Calcium hardness should be 200 - 275 for plaster/gunite pools and 175 - 225 for all other pool types.

• Total alkalinity should be 80 - 125 for plaster/gunite pools and 125 - 150 for all other pool types.

For information on water testing, go to water testing.

2. Brush, vacuum and thoroughly clean all pool surfaces. Vacuuming-to-waste will help lower the water level as directed in step 7. Empty all lint traps and skimmer baskets and store for the winter. Empty in-line chlorinators of chlorinating products.

3. Apply Pool Time® Metal Stain & Scale Out to inhibit metal stains and scale formation over the cold weather months.

4. Circulate the water a minimum of 1 hour and then add Pool Time Shock with Clarifier according to label directions. Circulate the water for a minimum of 6 - 8 hours.

5. Add an algicide according to label directions. Circulate the water a minimum of 1 hour.

6. Clean the filter elements thoroughly with Pool Time Filter & Cartridge Cleaner according to the instructions listed below. Do not leave water in the filter.

• Sand filters should be backwashed 2 - 3 times longer than usual. Then clean the sand with Pool Time Filter & Cartridge Cleaner as follows. Turn off the pump. Close the valves into and out of the filter and add the product full-strength to the filter top through the inspection port, anode port, sand fill or pressure gauge hole, whichever is applicable. After 1 hour, open valves, turn on the pump and backwash the filter thoroughly. Turn off the pump, remove the drain plug, drain the filter and turn the multi-port valve to the closed position.

• D.E. filters should be backwashed, then turn off the pump and drain. Remove the element and clean thoroughly with Pool Time Filter & Cartridge Cleaner to remove build-up of grease, oil and scale. Inspect the septa for tears or stretching and repair or replace if needed. Clean the inside of the filter tank and reinstall the element or store separately. Replace the drain plug to keep out small animals.

• After turning off the pump, cartridge filters should be removed, rinsed with a strong spray of water and then soaked in Pool Time Filter & Cartridge Cleaner, according to label instructions.

7. Prepare equipment following manufacturer's instructions. Partially drain the pool to the appropriate winter level as listed below:

• Vinyl-lined pools: 1 inch below the skimmer mouth.

• Plaster pools with solid covers: 1 - 6 inches below the skimmer mouth or tile, whichever is lower.

• Painted or natural finished pools with solid covers: 6 inches below the skimmer mouth.

• Pools with mesh covers or no covers: 18 - 24 inches below the skimmer mouth.

Shut off the filter pump; drain the pump, filter, heater, hoses and all other applicable equipment and store. Where necessary, use an anti-freeze specifically formulated for pools. CAUTION: DO NOT use automotive anti-freeze. It is poisonous. Only use pool anti-freeze.

8. Remove floating chlorinator. The use of a floating chlorinator while your pool is covered can result in damage to a vinyl liner or a pool cover.

9. Install a pool cover. Covering your pool keeps out unwanted debris and keeps valuable chemicals in. It also adds another level of safety from unwanted pool entry. A good cover will save you many hours of start-up time in the spring. If a solid cover is not used, apply a second shock treatment mid-winter.

10. Store pool products in a cool, dry place away from other products such as gasoline, fertilizer, motor oil, household cleaners, etc. (For more information, go to Product Safety.)

Closing/Winterizing In Milder Climates
In milder southern climates where freezing temperatures are infrequent, winterization is a simpler process. If you will be using your pool occasionally during the winter, or if you leave your pool uncovered during the off-season months, continue your usual maintenance with these adjustments:

1. Adjust the testing frequency of sanitizer levels and water treatments to maintain a free available chlorine level of 1 - 3 ppm. Do this according to the average water temperature:

• At 55 — 70 degrees, test once a week.

• At 40 — 65 degrees, test once a month.

2. Maintain normal in-season pH of 7.2 - 7.6, and alkalinity levels of 80 - 125 ppm for plaster/gunite pools and 125 - 150 for all other pool types. Maintain calcium hardness at high end of range for your pool type: 200 - 275 for plaster/gunite pools and 175 - 225 for all other pool types.

3. Remove debris, and brush and vacuum the pool when needed, whether or not the pool is being used. During extended periods of non-use, consider a pool cover to keep out debris.

4. Run the filter for at least 2 hours a day.

5. When freezing temperatures are expected, inspect all equipment for proper operation, especially electrical controls on heaters and pumps. If your pool is equipped with a heater, it may need to run several hours a day to keep pool water temperatures above freezing. If the pool has no heater, ice formation can be kept to a minimum by circulating the water continuously through the entire system. If your circulation system is on an automatic timer, it will need to be set for continuous circulation or overridden altogether.

This analysis is designed for use only with the Pool Time® brand products named in this computerized water analysis printout, and is correct to the best of RWP, Inc.'s knowledge. RWP is not responsible for any use of this printout with products other than the Pool Time ® brand products named in this printout, and use of this printout with other products could result in improper or incorrect treatment of the pool water.

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